Thursday, 21 July 2011
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Tuesday, 19 July 2011
“La Perra Carísima”
In Jicarito, in front of the first pulpería on the left, the multi-colored dog pack barks throughout the night. The mutts don’t have names, although they think that they do.
“Feo”, “Véte” and “Flaco” are their pet names, the words they respond to. They find their breakfasts in garbage piles, their lunches in the ditch next to the road, and their dinners behind Don Dago’s taco comedor. They come in blonde, dusty white, dark brown with black stripes, light brown with black spots, and black with white markings. They’re as massive and vicious as a caged lion; they’re as tiny and timid as a one-winged sparrow. The street is rough and dusty, its gravel crumbling into itself, but they own it. Our aguacatero pack owns this Jicarito calle.
When we took Essa to the dog sitter in Jicarito, she was plump and happy. Since we picked her up at the ESSO gasolinera three months earlier, she had been feasting on deli salami and roasted chicken, chasing guatusas in our lush and green Zamorano neighborhood, and acting like she’d never known the street life. We walked past that pulpería on the left, and she stood extra tall as she sported her spotless red collar. She was a pet dog now.
A leashed dog on a walk with its owners is a sight to be seen. In Jicarito, where you’re lucky to earn enough money to feed your growing hijos, pet dogs are kept tied up outside. They aren’t “part of the family”. They don’t get professional medical attention. They don’t eat deli salami. They don’t wear sweaters.
We were lucky enough to find Carmen, the local veterinarian’s assistant, to watch Essa while we took our fancy tour of Nicaragua and Costa Rica. Carmen assured us that Essa would be in the best care.
“Where does she sleep?” she asked.
“Um… in our room,” we admitted hesitantly, standing in her house made of a dirt floor and tin planks for the walls and roof.
“Then she will sleep in my bed!” It didn’t take her even a second to learn about, process, accept, and embrace our cultural strangeness.
After we’d explained to Carmen all the items in the bag we’d brought- a food bowl, a water bowl, a bag of dog food, flea shampoo, and extra salami slices that we didn’t want to waste- we took off for two weeks.
While we were gone, Essa became somewhat of a legend. The gringa dog with the collar and leash. The perra that gets bathed. The dog that eats from a bowl. The one that sleeps inside.
There were two other dogs in Carmen’s household, both outdoor dwellers, as skinny as can be. As we paid Carmen a previously-agreed-upon fair wage for her dog sitting services, her 8 year-old nephew grabbed Essa’s leash and used it to slap one of the other dogs. Even though Essa lived on the side of a Honduran highway for years, her current status as “gringa” dog had given her superiority.
As we walked away from Carmen down the dusty hill, we passed the pulpería, and a shaggy white dog gave Essa a bark. They could’ve been sisters, Essa and the barking pooch. In fact, they probably are. But Essa didn’t bark back; she didn’t even look up from her incessant ground-sniffing.
Our barking white friend watched closely as Essa led us down the hill, leading the way towards our apartment a mile away. “Véte!” yelled a middle-aged woman, as she smiled at us and used her broom to shoo away Essa’s sister. The rest of the canine pack was just about to head on down to Don Dago’s for some taco leftovers, and our yapping shaggy friend joined them. The adept pack paced up and down the gritty road, picking up a few precious meat scraps. As the sun went down over the tin roofs, they began their howling routine, asserting their territory and keeping the town safe. Those dogs, they own this Jicarito street.
Wednesday, 8 June 2011
Tummy Wummy Achey
Monday, 6 June 2011
A Trip to the Vet.
Cast of Characters:
-Moto Driver
-Woman riding in the moto with us
-Nigel [white guy who we met at the supermarket last week]
-Veterinarian [old man with a lisp]
-Andrew
-Me
Scene 1: The One In Which Nigel Nearly Crashes Into The Moto
[Moto drives into the veterinarian "parking lot". Giant white van starts backing up, about to crash into the moto. Moto driver honks repeatedly. Giant white van stops. Giant white van starts to back up again, still about to run into the moto. Moto honks repeatedly.]
Nigel: "What are you doing, you asshole?"
Woman riding in the moto with us [chuckling]: "What did he just say?"
Me [smiling]: "Bad words."
Moto driver: "It's his fault."
[Andrew and I exit the moto.]
Nigel [He recognizes Andrew from the supermarket]: "HEY!"
[Nigel talks to Andrew about how you can't get cement anywhere in Honduras. Apparently he's doing a construction project. He also invites Andrew to come over to his house. I go inside to talk to the vet.]
Scene 2: The One In Which The Veterinarian Isn't Offended
[After talking to the vet about our dog-sitting needs, he starts talking about Nigel.]
Veterinarian: "He came in here looking for some cement. Apparently he can't find any."
Me: "Oh, really? He seemed angry."
Veterinarian: "He was rude. He said that Hondurans aren't civilized, and that's why he can't find any cement."
[Pause]
Veterinarian: "But I'm not offended, because I'm Peruvian, not Honduran."
Monday, 30 May 2011
What We Do.
Every day, when we're not teaching stuff, we do this:
And this:
Okay, well, maybe we do other things, too. Like this:
And occasionally, we watch this:
And finally, we eat this:
Of course, we do other things, too. But I'm saving those for the next blog post.










